Gemstones need to possess three characteristics: beauty, durability and rarity. Colour is the most important feature of a gem because it simultaneously conveys beauty and rarity. Each gemstone variety has its own acceptable range of colours that make that gem recognisable: emeralds are green, rubies are red and so on. Importantly, the shade or any slight variation of the main colour that resonates with you the most will naturally attract you to your gem.

Technically speaking, colour is an interplay of hue, tone and saturation. A gem’s hue is the basic colour you observe; its lightness or darkness, or how vivid it is, will be described by tone and saturation, respectively.

The art of grading colour in a cut and polished transparent gemstone involves considering how the gem interacts with light. The cut and proportions of a gemstone affect how white light is refracted and reflected within the gem, shaping our perception of its colour intensity. To truly appreciate the interplay of light and colour, observe the gem in a neutral, naturally-lit environment. Hold it at waist-level, under your eyes, and gently tilt it in all directions to capture its full beauty.

Gemstones are cherished for their beauty, durability and rarity. While colour contributes to a gemstone’s allure and uniqueness, it is clarity that accentuates its resilience. In the world of gemmology, clarity delves into the presence and nature of inclusions and blemishes within a gemstone, unveiling its origin and journey. In a poetic twist, these marks embody each gemstone’s unique essence, making it uniquely yours.

A desirable gemstone will feature inclusions that don’t stand out too proudly but silently contribute to its beauty. Certain varieties of coloured gemstones increase in value due to specific clarity features, whilst too many inclusions will affect a gem’s transparency, brilliance, and even durability.

While the unaided eye can often glimpse a gemstone’s overall clarity, a magnifying loupe opens up a whole new world of exploration.

Gem cuts represent the meticulous craftsmanship carved into a rough gemstone to reveal its true glory. These exquisite details breathe enchanting life into each gem, transforming it into a mesmerising wearable object. Gemstones come in various shapes and sizes, each possessing its own unique charm and personality.

The cut of a gemstone refers to its outline shape and faceting style. Common shapes in coloured gemstones include round, oval, cushion, octagon, or pear, which are then faceted as brilliant, step cut, or a combination of both. The faceting style gives the gemstone its unique flair as it significantly influences its final brilliance and appearance.

A brilliant cut is designed to maximise a gem’s inner sparkle. Its facets radiate upwards from the bottom point and optimise the reflection and refraction of light within the gem. Although diamonds are often synonymous with the brilliant cut, this classic choice is perfect for any gemstone where you want to achieve a dazzling look. Alternatively, the step cut, known for its long facets that run parallel to the table of the gem, exudes elegance and timelessness. This style gained popularity during the Art Deco era in the early 20th century, with its emphasis on geometric shapes and symmetry. Not all gemstones showcase this faceting style as well as emeralds do.

Carat is the internationally recognised unit of weight measurement for cut and polished gemstones. Gemstones are typically sold “by the carat” in the international trade, while rough gemstones are commonly sold by the gram. Interestingly, a carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams, which is the average weight of a carob seed. This method of measurement has been passed down from early gem traders, who used these small, uniform seeds as counterweights to balance the gems on their scales.

A gem’s carat weight can potentially indicate its volume or size, but this isn’t a reliable correlation, as each mineral has a different density and, therefore, a different weight. Carat weight is one factor that determines a gem’s value; generally speaking, the larger a gemstone, the rarer it is. When it comes to everyday colourful jewellery, expressing gemstone size in millimetre measurements (like 8x6mm oval) is the way to go. However, serious gemstone collectors know that sizes like 3ct, 5ct, and 7ct are highly coveted and can command higher prices due to their rarity.

When considering purchasing a gemstone, one important (albeit less glamorous!) factor is the gemmological certificate that comes with it. This is especially important when buying solitaire rings or jewellery featuring a significant gemstone.

Just as a passport defines our identity, a gemmological certificate is a comprehensive, laminated report that details the unique characteristics of a cut and polished gemstone. It’s important to note that it’s not intended to grade the quality or value of a gem, but rather, it’s a tool for objectively stating its identity, authenticity, geographic origin, and any treatments applied. These details should align with the seller’s claims, and the value offered should be in line with the market value of similar gems with the same characteristics, ensuring a fair and transparent transaction.

Gemstones are believed to have the power to tap into the inherent human weakness for pretty things. They have a mystical way of choosing their owners, captivating them with their beauty in ways that are hard to fathom. Perhaps a colour speaks to you because it brings back memories or pleases the senses, or an inclusion within the gem gives it a charming allure; it could also be down to the cut and how it makes light sparkle in ways that are difficult to forget.

Character is, in fact, the sum of all the Cs as it recognises that the sublime beauty of gemstones goes beyond measurable qualities and is instead elusive and inherently subjective. The main trait of character in a gem is, therefore, not contingent on its monetary value or the conventional notion of quality associated with a specific gem variety, it’s about celebrating individuality. It invites you to follow your heart when choosing a gem, allowing you to colour your life outside the lines.

The rising popularity of coloured gemstones has highlighted the need for deeper understanding of a gemstone’s journey, which has long been veiled in mystery. Nowadays, a quick online search provides us with vast information that can even be overwhelming and create some uncertainty. For instance: Who can one trust when considering purchasing a fine gem? Are certain colours better than others? The beauty of the gem business is that it is all about people and personal relationships.

Connecting personally, not only with the gemstone, but also with its seller, is the cornerstone of the gem business. Doing so will allow you to ask for information on a gemstone’s journey and feel confident in your purchase.